Japan Part 2: Snow Monkey Park and Thundersnow
December 22, 2022 (T) - Hot Springs with Snow Monkeys at a Ryokan
When we purchased our JR Passes, we sorted out the route to Snow Monkey Park from Tokyo, so we were all set for our reserved seats for the first two trains. We woke up early, gathered our backpacks, quickly did contactless checkout of our hotel, then walked to the nearest train stop. The journey sounds complex: three trains, a bus, and a 45 minute walk into the mountains. It actually wasn’t difficult at all! After the second train, at the JR counter, we seamlessly arranged our tickets to Kagaonsen for the following day, where we were staying for Christmas Eve and Christmas. The third train was a metro, which we found easily thanks to all the signs for Snow Monkey Park. Then there was a bus right outside of the metro stop to take us to the park. From there, the trails were clearly marked for our walk into the park.
G deserves some major props for finding this wonderful ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) inside of the park. The ryokan, called Jigokudanionsen, has been family owned and operated since the 1800s, before the park was established around it. It’s the only lodging available inside of the park and has its own private onsens (hot springs). Everywhere else is at least a 45 minute walk away.
While we were staying there, we also learned this place is where snow monkeys first began using hot springs. Here’s a little background.
This area of Japan is the only area in the world where monkeys use and enjoy hot springs. The legend from the ryokan goes that in the 1960s, a sailor stayed at the inn for a month to relax and use the hot springs to try to heal his disabled foot. Each time he would go in the hot spring, first he would test the water temperature with his hand. He would try to wave the monkeys over to him but they kept their distance. After he left, the owner was feeding the monkeys old apples when she accidentally threw one into a hot spring. A monkey ran up to the hot spring, dipped its hand in the water to test it like the sailor had, then jumped in to get the apple. Other monkeys saw this and immediately ran to the hot spring where they, too, tested the water with their hand then jumped in. Nowadays, humans and monkeys share the outside onsen, and there are two private ones for only people inside (separated for male and female). Just across the river from the ryokan, you’ll find monkey only onsens, where they can enjoy the hot springs as people are allowed to observe them.
A few pro-tips: never look at the monkeys in the eyes or smile at them. Eye contact and baring teeth are considered acts of aggression, and could provoke them to attack you. The best time of year to see the snow monkeys is in the winter.
We were warmly greeted by our host when we checked in and were showed our room, the bathroom (a shared bathroom), and the onsens. Sometimes it can be difficult to navigate certain Japanese courtesies and customs, but if you ask, the locals will usually gladly answer any questions you have, like what shoes to wear or not wear in what parts of the house (never wear shoes inside of your room on the tatami mats, for example). After we were settled in, we made our way across the river to observe the monkeys in their private hot springs. It really is fascinating to watch them relax in a similar way we would.
Then we hurried back to our ryokan to take a dip in the outside onsen and see if we could convince a monkey to join us. We had a task to do first to attempt to have our Christmas wish granted. We were in Snow Monkey Park and there was no snow. We thought the area would be beautiful covered in snow and wanted a white Christmas. So, I performed the Japanese Snow Dance. Many years ago, when I was in highschool and the internet was young, my brother found an ancient Japanese snow dance online. We wanted a snow day, so we gave this dance a try. To our delight, it snowed a lot and our wish came true! I had tried this snow dance another three or four times and every time it snowed a good amount. Now, I figured (and still mostly do) that this is just coincidence, but we thought, “why not try the Japanese Snow Dance in Japan?”. So, I did it. Then, we made our way outside to the onsen. After only about 10 minutes, a few monkeys decided they would join us. We were so excited to see them and were honored they trusted us enough to join us. We soaked for about 30 minutes and then used the inside onsens to rinse off.
When you stay at a Japanese inn, often a meal plan will be included or you can elect what you want for an additional charge. Our ryokan included dinner and breakfast. There’s also usually Japanese pajamas (yukata) provided for you to wear and it’s completely acceptable to wear it around the inn. Let me tell you, they are so comfortable. So, after we were warm and relaxed from the hot springs, we returned to our room where we slipped into our yukatas and awaited dinner which was served shortly after. We greatly enjoyed our traditional Japanese dinner, which included a couple of things like wild mushrooms from the forest and panko fried greens. After dinner, we sipped some herbal tea.
It was cold and dark, so we decided we’d go to bed early around 8:00PM. Our host had let us know that if we heard any loud noises in the middle of the night, it was just the monkeys running around on the roof. Fortunately, we didn’t hear any noises and slept incredibly well that night. We’ve had a few questions on how comfortable the beds on the floor are, and our answer is, very comfortable.
December 23, 2022 (T) - The Japanese Snow Gods Have Answered. A Christmas Wish Come True
Snow was not in the forecast for Snow Monkey Park. As soon as we woke up, we jumped up off of the floor and walked over to the windows. It wasn’t much, but there was a dusting just thick enough to cover the ground. The sun was rising and we decided to venture out to the outdoor onsen one last time.
The river and the park blanketed in snow were picturesque with the sun rising in the background. A couple of monkeys thought so, too, and joined us to watch.
We stayed for about 30 minutes then got out, rinsed off inside, and returned to our rooms where breakfast was served. It included some traditional Japanese food, an omelet, green tea, coffee, and the most delicious croissant either of us have ever eaten (sorry, France). We took our time sipping coffee.
After a slow breakfast, we packed up, checked out, then made the long journey to our next hotel, located on the west coast of Japan, a couple of hours north of Kyoto. We crossed the bridge over the river, hiked through the mountains out of the park, picked up a bus to the train station. From there we had two trains to take. We had appreciated the dusting of snow that morning, but would later find that the Japanese snow gods were simply triangulating where we would be and then the real snow would fall.
The first train ride went without an issue. When we boarded the second one, it was snowing quite heavily. So heavily, that our train arrived an hour late, which rarely happens in Japan. As we slowly made it closer and closer to our destination, our faces were glued to the windows, watching the white out that was happening outside. The trees and plants that we could barely see were sideways due to the heavy winds. Normally this time of year, it’s in the upper 40s (~14 degrees celcius). The snow gods had found us, but the show wasn’t over yet.
When we eventually arrived, our driver was there waiting for us, and skillfully drove the 15 passenger van through the foot of snow that had already fallen and heavy snow and windy conditions to the hotel. We checked in and enjoyed a night in watching Christmas movies and the blizzard outside. We were in a heavy snow warning. Upon researching what that meant, we learned that this type of snow was a once in a few decades event. Later that night, we saw a bright flash followed by a loud thunder. It had been years since we’d witnessed thundersnow! We thanked the snow gods and were mesmerized by the purple lightning and loud thunder that went on for hours. By the time we went to bed, there was about three feet (1 meter) of snow on the ground.
