Japan Part 3: Christmas Eve & Christmas in Kaga Onsen
December 24, 2022 (G) - A Christmas Eve walk in the snow and a private Onsen (hotsprings)
We woke after enjoying the evening of thundersnow to find the world remained blanketed in white. In spite of the temperature being just above freezing, most of the heavy wet snow remained on the ground at a depth of about 30 cm (1 ft). We enjoyed a slow morning with a full breakfast of traditional Japanese dishes.
We then prepared to make the long walk around the towns central lake, through the snow to our next accommodation. We contemplated attempting to find a taxi or uber, but the snow was still very deep in the roads and much of the town remained hunkered down or were preoccupied with digging themselves out from this freak snowstorm. With the chance of transportation being slim, and finding that it really wasn’t terribly cold, we decided that a walk would do us good and might prove just as time effective as attempting other means of transportation.
Around 11 am, we set forth our packs strapped on, hip belts tight over our layered clothing. Initially the sun showed brightly upon us and the walk, while slippery at times over unplowed paths, was quite pleasant. We walked down a few small back roads, and eventually came to a long lonely road that lead into a patch of snow covered woods in the distance (featured as the first photo of this entry).
Upon reaching the wooded area, the road withered to a small path and began a sharp descent. The sky darkened some as the sun vanished behind deep gray clouds. We were no longer totally certain of our path but shrugged and hoped for the the best as we seemed to remain in line with our map.
Through the woods we eventually came upon a road that met up with the large central lake. By this time the threatening sky began its first volley of precipitation. It was not cold enough to produce light and dry snowflakes. These consisted of snowflakes that edged into something akin to sleet snowflake clumps. This first attack was mercifully brief and served us well as a warning that the time had come to break out the ponchos.
Our walk continued around the lake for another hour or so, with several bouts of interchanging sleet, snow, and rain. Eventually we reached the other side of the lake and began searching the town for our Ryokan (Traditional Japanese Inn). When we at last found our ryokan, Kohan-no-Yado Morimoto, we arrived on foot rather drenched and disheveled. We were greeted by two Japanese attendants that at first seemed to question our validity as guests. Indeed their skepticism was well placed. We must have seemed and both certainly felt like a pair of paupers arriving at a castle during a storm to beg for shelter rather than their typically affluent guests.
We had decided that our Christmas gift to each other this year would be staying at a very nice accommodation with a private hot spring. So this was certainly a splurge event for us. The entrance of the Ryokan was a wide low area that met a secluded driveway. Beyond the initial stone entry floor was a step or two up to a main lobby littered with chairs that, on the opposite wall from the entrance, provided a view of a small Japanese garden courtyard with the lake in view just behind it. In the center of the lobby was a large Christmas tree, finely decorated the seemed to greet us. Off to the right of the entrance was a raised check-in counter from which our two attendants had appeared when we entered carless and dripping wet.
Fortunately, if our hosts were taken aback by our immediate appearance, they did not let it influence the courtesy and kindness they extended to us in those first few minutes of our arrival. Even before they were certain we were indeed paying guests, they were quick to offer us towels and to remove our packs. Our packs which normally weighed in around 14 kg (30 lbs) for mine and 12 kg (25 lbs) for T, had been made heavier by the soaking rain, sleet, snow. The size to weight ratio was rather surprising and could be readily seen upon their faces. Undaunted, they remained ever so polite and generous. Their large smiles were infectious and we soon found ourselves in dry Yukata Kimono robes and slippers provided by our hosts and seated with warm drinks in hand.
We had been shown our rooms, which consisted of on entry way, toilet room with two separated toilets and vanity sinks, a traditional Japanese bedroom on tatami mats, a meditation area, a slightly sunken dining room which overlooked the courtyard garden and lake, an onsen preparation room and the onsen itself which had large windows that could be opened and overlooked the lake. The sunken nature of the dining room will be important later in the evening.
After sipping tea and warming ourselves, it was nearing time for dinner. We set out in search of the dining rooms for meals, as our personal dining room was mostly intended for sipping tea or champagne. After a bit of wandering, we found with help from the scent of food and the sound of laughter, the dining rooms. We were greeted by a stout elderly Japanese woman, who spoke very little to no English, a fact which suited us just fine, who showed us to our dining table. The table was large and ornate, and could have easily seated six people. We were presented a menu which featured all Japanese cuisine. At first glace we thought surely we would pick from the assortment of dishes, since there were about 12 listed courses.
As we perused the dishes the first of the listed dishes appeared before us. That is when in dawned upon us, this was not a menu to be selected from, this was THE menu in its entirety. So we ate and we ate, and then we ate a bit more, and finally when we could scarcely move, the dishes stopped. I found most of the food to be exceptionally delicious, with only a few questionable items, which we both at least attempted to consume. The variety of fermented foods came as a surprise initially, but unlike T I rather enjoy pickled items. The miso soup was to die for, the steak was phenomenal. The various noodle dishes, fish, seafood, vegetable, and rice dishes were all fantastic. I sometime still ponder them, such was their quality and savory elements. It wasn’t total perfection as there was one delicacy we couldn’t quite get on board with.
Not to discourage anyone from trying it for themselves and certainly not to prevent anyone from enjoying the delicious layered flavors that compose the symphony that is Japanese cuisine. Simply to tell it like it is, the only thing that neither of us could quite get on board with (even before we knew what it actually is) was Cod milt, fish sperm sack. A Japanese delicacy that is best left to be used as bait for the next fish. It has a custardy, fatty consistency, with a fish flavor and odd stringiness to it, something akin to swallowing a partially hardened loogie. While I still pine over the rest of the food, the memory of this still brings a visage of visible disgust to my face.
Filled to the brim after dinner, we made our way slowly back to our quarters and eventually to the little dining room. For me, Christmas Eve and even the whole Christmas season is somewhat incomplete without having at least listened, from start to finish, to Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker. So, after allowing some time for digestions, we turned on Tchaikovesky, and sat in our sunken dining area sipping champagne looking out at the lake. The snow outside returned just in time for the introduction of the Snow Queen within the ballet, it was somewhat magical.
T had gotten up to use the restroom and upon re-entering the dining room decided to perform a pirouette in solidarity with the Snow Queen’s music. Unfortunately, T had forgotten about the slight dip in the floor of the dining area. The lack of floor where she had anticipated it, turned her pirouette into one of the most graceful looking ankle twists I have ever seen. Fortunately, the twist was very minor though it would nag her for a week or two after. After recovering herself, we iced and wrapped her ankle and returned to a less active form of listening to The Nutcracker and watching a light snowfall upon the lake for the remainder of the evening.
December 25, 2022 (G) - Christmas!
Christmas morning was bright and full of sunshine as the sun rose merrily over the lake. We awoke and rolled from our tatami mats and headed down to breakfast. Once again we were fed with the finest of Japanese cuisine and then we spent the remainder of the morning either chatting with our families for their Christmas Eve or soaking in the hot springs.
Upon chatting with one of my nephews, he excitedly asked, “Where in the world are you guys right now?” We happily responded with our current whereabouts and provided him with a tale or two of our adventures to date.
Lunch came and went, unfortunately the Cod Milt returned in fried form and since everything is usually a bit better when fried we gave it another go. The result was the same. The afternoon was spent enjoying Christmas films and another dip in the hot springs.
Dinner came and we were pleased to find that Cod Milt was not featured on the menu. All together it was a leisurely and relaxing Christmas Day.
(More food and menu pictures featured below)
